Does this mean that specialty ketchups are inferior to mainstream ketchup? As a condiment, perhaps. If you think of them as sauces, they stand on their own, like a spaghetti sauce. But since we almost exclusively think of ketchup in the condiment role, specialty ketchups labor under a handicap. In fact, when considered solely as an artisan food, some of these ketchups seem quite appetizing. Consider Gladwell's signal example, World's Real Ketchup:
[..] He starts with red peppers, Spanish onions, garlic, and a
high-end tomato paste. Basil is chopped by hand, because the buffalo
chopper bruises the leaves. He uses maple syrup, not corn syrup, which
gives him a quarter of the sugar of Heinz. He pours his ketchup into a
clear glass ten-ounce jar, and sells it for three times the price of
Heinz, and for the past few years he has crisscrossed the country,
peddling World's Best in six flavors--regular, sweet, dill, garlic,
caramelized onion, and basil--to specialty grocery stores and
supermarkets. [...] The ratio of tomato solids to liquid in World's
Best is much higher than in Heinz, and the maple syrup gives it an
unmistakable sweet kick.
I might not drop several bucks having a jar shipped to my doorstep, but it does make me want to try cobbling together an artisan ketchup myself! Since Gladwell mentions a renowned tomato historian who also has written books on tomato cooking, I looked him up at the library, and found Pure Ketchup: A History of America's National Condiment, with Recipes by Andrew F. Smith. So look for my experiments in the near future!
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